Malt Mission 2007 #200

Johnnie Walker Black Label 12yo (1970s)
Blended Scotch Whisky
43% abv
£100-120*

Here we are... finally. Sorry for the delay in posting, I swear it was not some ploy to build suspense or something stupid like that. I appreciate all your texts and emails and comments on the blog in anticipation. Especially those that were (playfully?) rude. I simply haven't had much time in front of my computer since Wednesday. Long days and nights. But it's the weekend and it's Malt Mission #200... WOO HOO!!!!! Thanks for reading. We will take a week off from the daily mission in celebration with posts on other topics, top whisky picks, whisky choices for Xmas, complaints and rants, questions answered, etc. Then we'll get right back to it. Lots of treats still on the shelf. Thanks to everyone for their support.

So Johnnie Walker Black. This mission started back in January with a contemporary bottling of Johnnie Walker Black Label (Malt Mission #1). We have been through 3 bottles since. Yup. We likey. This version is from the 1970s, when the words 'black label' first appeared on a bottle of Johnnie Walker. But we're getting ahead of ourselves. First, I really must explain why this drop ended up being Malt Mission #200. It was going to be a 40yo Balblair which was well suited for the cigar theme of the week (and has just had its price jacked by £100) until Tuesday night...

As readers of this blog will know, over the past few days I had a mate visiting from Finland. The poor guy recently had his heart broken so it must be said that we spent many hours putting it back together in anyway we know how. It involved a lot of talking, a lot of walking, and, naturally, some beer and whisky.

After a whisky tasting I hosted at The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (where we enjoyed...um, a few malts) Tommi and I headed to the Auld Shillelagh, a gem of an Irish pub in Stoke Newington where they pour the best pint of Guinness in North London. After a few pints and much good conversation with the barman and surrounding folks we noticed an old bottle of Buchanan's Black & White blended whisky behind the bar. "Where did you get that?" He said he had inherited several old malts from a friend who's father (? grandfather?) had passed away. Turns out he had an old JWBlack hidden behind the bar too. We had to have some. And we did. We were happy chappys. It was fantastic... and he charged us 2.50 per dram. Wikkid. Upon closing, he was civilised enough to send us home with a small water bottle filled with enough spirit to taste under more controlled circumstances for Malt Mission #200. And here we are.

In 1870 Alexander Walker introduced the trademark square bottle with a label at an angle. This is easily on of the most recognisable bottles in the world. 1870! This is 24 years before Coca Cola created theirs. The coloured labels were introduced in 1909 changing the names of Old Highland to White label, Special Old Highland to Red Label, and Extra Special Old Highland to Black Label. Johnnie Walker White Label was dropped during WWI but the other two have survived until today (and have been joined by a few other colour classes, Swings, etc.)

For other Johnnie Walkers had on the mission and more JW info click HERE. "Tell them that 5 bottles of Johnnie Walker are sold every second," begs Kristin...

* price based on recent auctions and THIS

TASTING NOTES:

Rich and weighty, with a pleasant sherry influence. Deep and wonderfully complex. Shoe polish, leather. Rotting vegetables in the fridge drawer, decomposition. Slightly sour with cream cheese, custard, Clearasil, cake/bakery with a good smokiness and some pepper in there, too. Toffee and croissants. Sweet and rich, with some signs that a) we were a bit drunk last night and b) this may have been open a while.

Toasty and creamy with heavily honeyed sherried tones. Apple pie, ice cream, caramel, toffee, blueberries, vanilla or milk and honey-scented hand soap. Smoke and sherry intermingle in the finish that grows a bit stale and watery.

SUMMARY:

It must be acknowledged that some of the flavours detected could be the result of an old bottle being open for an unknown period of time."There are some things that when you smell makes you think its not a good one, but when you taste it, it's a different story," said Tommi. But no matter how much oxidation has occurred, this stuff is very delicious and smells completely different than any whisky I have ever had. I have had old JWBlacks before and the core of this was the same, although some of the pieces had decomposed, so to speak. Lacks the grainy vanilla notes that the contemporary JWBlack has, but the grain makes its presence known, especially on the nose, with margarine and corny-type aromas. Again, in the finish, aged grain can be detected. It is a deep-filled sandwich of a whisky, a wonderful mix of flavours with a great mouthfeel and chewy finish. To think that this stuff was available for + or - £15 makes me want to give up buying new whiskies, esp the overpriced juvenile malts that are becoming more prominent today, and start an apple juice tasting blog.

When I drink something like this I cannot help but be concerned that the changes in whisky production over the past 30 years have had a negative impact on the flavour of Scottish whisky available today. What will it hold for the future? I know many whisky writers have been vocal about this trend, especially Charlie Maclean who has had his nose in glasses of whisky since long before my folks ever met, let alone thought of making a little Sammy, and I assure you it is not just nostalgia for the way things were. It is a reality. That being said, in many ways we are entering a new era of whisky with new grains and barley strains, maturation techniques and casks, new yeasts, and new markets. So please, raise a glass with me: Here is to the future of full-flavoured and affordable scotch whisky. And, of course, here's to 200 more Malt Missions. Have a good weekend.

Malt Mission #196
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Malt Mission 2007 #199

Glenlivet XXV (25yo)
Single Malt Scotch Whisky
43% abv
£200

The new jewel in the Glenlivet range, this 25 year old was introduced over this past year with the determined aim to help push Glenlivet into the #1 spot in the world of premium Scotch whiskies... and to blow drinkers' socks off, flavour-wise. This will become a permanent fixture in the Glenlivet range.

Some have complained about the packaging: folks (especially retailers) have taken issue the weight of the box and others have asked whether or not is is really necessary to use stone and wood to transport malt whisky, but the accompanying booklet is informative, intimate, and generally interesting. Is it what's inside that counts... ?

This is a bottling of whiskies filled to cask in 1980 that spent the last 2 years of their lives maturing in ex-Oloroso sherry casks. Neil Macdonald, told me, "I was originally inspired by a Berry Bros 1975 bottling of The Glenlivet which was a real sherried dream and it was clear that this style could work well with the Glenlivet." Without a doubt, 25 full years of Oloroso maturation would have killed the signature nutty, floral and honeyed notes of The Glenlivet. The secondary maturation adds (strong) overtones without sacrificing or harming the core malt. I will taste it today for the mission, but it must be said that I have dipped into this a few times already... and loved every second of if. Delicious. I have shared milliliters with other whisky lovers and everyone has been left singing its praises, if not speechless.

All Glenlivets had on the mission can be found HERE. This whisky was tasted with visiting whisky-loving Finnish friend TS. His notes appear in quotes.

TASTING NOTES:

Sweet and jammy with lots of depth. Very oak influenced. Chocolate covered nuts and raisins with incredible indications of age in the background. "You can smell that it's old. It's so big." Damp, mysterious basement that a child is both afraid of and determined to explore.

First dry, grippy and oaky then opens up to apples, cinnamon, vanilla and toffee. "Not too big in the mouth but a lots of flavour, Glenlivet style. Very smooth." Toffee, mint, orange marmalade, jam. Absolutely sumptuous and smooth. Long, gentle, silky finish with lingering fudge, sweet tobacco, and oak.

SUMMARY:

Not a morning malt. This beauty is for evening comforts. Tommi even thought it would be nice in the afternoon because it is so easy and pleasant. The tea-leaf element would make me agree with him. It is even energetic, not at all tired by 25 years in oak. But this is a slow conversation whisky... best suited for conversations of silence. "This is one of those whiskies where the taste of alchohol is in the background and all the other flavours are laid on top. It just continues and continues." The 43% abv is a good choice, the impact is so large that it really doesn't need a higher abv%. And while it takes water well, it certainly doesn't need it. Wonderful craftsmanship for the new pinnacle of the Glenlivet range.

Malt Mission #196
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Malt Mission #200

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Malt Mission 2007 #198

Chieftain's Robusto Cigar Malt
Single Malt Scotch Whisky
55.1% abv
£65

This is the third cigar malt from Chieftain's 2007 releases that I have had this week and I still haven't sparked a cigar. In fact, these whiskies have all been quite outstanding on their own, without filling my mouth (and flat) with smoke. I encourage any feedback from readers who have enjoyed any of these malts (or others) with cigars (or pipes, for that matter).

I have nothing much to say. I suppose some might be wondering why the prices for these malts are so high considering the oldest is 13 years old. Unfortunately, beyond explaining the general quality of the taste of these whiskies, I have no explanation. I can assume, however, that the casks selected to be Cigar Malts 2007 were maturing stocks from well known and perhaps ever rare distilleries. No, not Brora or Port Ellen, but perhaps these whiskies are single cask selections from big names like Macallan or Ardbeg? Ian Macleod Distillers have kept that a secret, but it is the only explanation I can think of for the high price tag for 10-13 year old whiskies. Any other ideas?

This is from a hogshead that yielded 270 bottles. It is intended to go well with a full-bodied cigar. All Chieftain's had on the mission can be viewed HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Croissants, buttery with an appealing sourness, custard, etc., but the real key here is bonfire, tires, and peat. Orange sweetness, like vitamin C or Fanta. Some dehydrated strawberry and cereal notes, too.

Tar and leaf fires, salt, smoke and oak that eventually gives way to sweet apple and rhubarb pie, some vanilla, and returns to the smoke before finishing on a malt and peat balance.

SUMMARY:

Great nose that balances appealing sweetness against rugged peaty Islay characteristics. A really excellent whisky in its own right, cigars or not. Again, as with the other cigar malts had this week, this one doesnt need water but does exhibit more when a drop is added. A great smoky treat.


Malt Mission #196
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Malt Mission 2007 #197

Chieftain's Cigar Malt Mild
Single Malt Scotch Whisky
54.9% abv
£64

Another whisky from the fifth batch of Chieftain's Cigar Malts. We had the new Classic yesterday and will have the Mild and Robusto today and tomorrow.

I have got to tell you that Googling around for pictures to accompany my posts led me to a few, um, potent images. I was pretty shocked at the volume of erotic and downright dirty photography featuring women (and men, but mostly women) with cigars. And smoking them was only one activity portrayed... use your imagination.

This is an 11 year old whisky finished in madeira casks and is one of 372 bottles. For all "cigar malts" had on the mission click HERE. Tasted with my visiting whisky-loving Finnish friend, TS. His notes appear in quotes.

TASTING NOTES:

Plums, oak, and some dried basil. Lemon thyme? Mint maybe, too. Light and fragrant, fresh with youth, "or maybe that is because it is cask strength, you can't feel all the flavours because the alcohol is on top of all the flavours," oaky spice. Gets creamier, more dairy aromas with time, some added spice when water is added. With water, it's a little mouldy, like wet wood, too.

Here comes some flavours that make me think "cigar malt": oily sweetness, wood, varnish, stewed fruits, spice and lingering oakiness. Pleasant and nothing too hamfisted or over the top. Creamy again, without too much grip.

SUMMARY:

A mild, gentle, and friendly drop that is bittersweet and quite engaging for a "lighter" dram. After work rather than after dinner or nite cap; after all it is the MILD version of their cigar malt. For opinions of others who know something about cigars, see THIS. Fancy a pipe? Go for it.

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Malt Mission 2007 #196

Chieftain's Cigar Malt Classic (2007)
Single Malt Scotch Whisky
54.4% abv
£68

Yeah, baby. Light 'em up, smoke 'em if you got 'em, etc.

This week we'll be hitting Malt Mission #200 and to mark the occasion we'll be looking at whiskies well suited to accompany cigars... not that I smoke, but it seems that many people smoke when they celebrate and I have a few appropriate malts on the shelf so I figured it was as good a theme as any.

The truth is, I am not very fond of cigars and find the concept of matching something that impairs your taste/fills your mouth with smoke and tar with something best enjoyed with an attentive palate a bit puzzling. That being said, many folks love this combination and it must be acknowledged that "unwinding" with a cigar and a whisky is a common practice; it is a classic image we have of whisky drinkers, especially older male whisky drinkers, whether or not it be accurate. I have been told by many respected whisky folks that the combination of whisky and cigars can be very complimentary, but when I have tried to combine them I've found that the cigar spoiled my enjoyment of my whisky. Only the most pronounced characteristics could be detected and thus all the charm and subtlety I love about enjoying whisky was lost... on me. I do love the smell of tobacco and used to enjoy visiting Royal Mile Whiskies and The Cigar Box in Edinburgh for the smells if nothing else. Burning the stuff is a different story, but to each their own.

Chieftain's is brand within Ian Macleod Distillers group and the Cigar Malt range has been through 4 previous editions. Early this year, with the smoking bans in Scotland well in place and the ban in England imminent, Ian Macleod Distillers invited whisky and cigar writers and retailers to Berwick, just south of the Scottish border, for the chance to smoke and taste their way through cask samples with the aim of selecting the best drops for release as Chieftains Cigar Malts in 2007. We will be tasting the trio over the next 3 days.

This is a 13-year-old limited release of 618 bottles and has been finished in ex-Chateau La Nerthe casks. Chateau La Nerthe is one of the oldest estates in Chateauneuf de Pape. It should be noted that I will NOT be tasting these with cigars. I might do so this weekend and will let you know if I have any further observations. Otherwise, I will leave the cigar-and-whisky commentary to the experts.

TASTING NOTES:

I often avoid describing colour, but in this case it is worth noting a new-copper tint, slightly pink. Very creamy, butter, jam, crumpets; trés Anglais. Butterscotch or toffee, soft-serve vanilla ice cream, and some corn. Water really sweetens this up and brings out more grassy-type of aromas. Hay, cinnamon and lemongrass.

Mmm, sweet and sour with a pleasant mouth-coating quality. Hot and exciting, under-ripe fruits, hard kiwis, green bananas. With water the creaminess in both texture and flavour becomes enhanced.

SUMMARY:

Big and sumptuous with sweet and sour extremes keeping an enjoyable, and balanced, flavour experience. With time, the nose get more and more sour (lactic sour, not crabapple sour) and I really enjoyed that. The taste remained fruity and chewy. The grip is extremely pleasing to my drinking experience, and I imagine it would be a positive feature for cigar-matching.

Malt Mission #195
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Malt Mission 2007 #195

Clynelish 1972, 34 yo
The Single Malts of Scotland
Highland Single Malt Whisky
50.5% abv
£110

Another week of whisky down and we are 5 drams away from Malt Mission #200. Crazy. Exciting. Dangerous? Looking forward. Thanks for reading.

Clynelish. (Calvin) KLEIN - (dog) LEASH. Depending my mood this distillery is often my answer to the unavoidable question, "What is your favourite whisky?" If in a less decisive mood I might say, "Distilleries north of Inverness: Glenmorangie, Dalmore, Balblair, Pulteney, Clynelish and Brora, etc." And if I am being difficult I will answer, "What day is it today?"

Built in 1819 and suffering a stop-start syndrome many distilleries underwent due to financial constraints, in 1931 the economic recession forced Clynelish to close. Production restarted in September 1938, only to shut down from May 1941 until November 1945 because of restrictions on the supply of barley to distillers during the Second World War.

In the 1960's Clynelish was modernised when electricity was installed and stills which had been direct-heated by coal furnaces were converted to internal steam coil heating. Clynelish was replaced by a new distillery built on an adjacent site in 1967-68. The six stills in the new distillery were run on the most up to date lines, while retaining the traditional still and the original water source (the Clynemilton Burn) ensured that the quality of Clynelish whisky remained unchanged. The "old-Clynelish" was renamed Brora when it began producing a peated style in 1969 to provide that character profile to Johnnie Walker blends. It was finally closed in 1983 and is much sought after by (wealthy) whisky lovers. Believe me, I would participate if I could... the stuff was DE-LI-CIOUS. At £85-£200 a pop, I will have to choose a roof over my head instead.

This is another release from the Single Malts of Scotland who were awarded with a few medals in this month's Independent Bottlers Challenge in Whisky Magazine. This is one of 409 bottles from a small batch vatting of two "complimentary casks". For all Single Malts of Scotland tasted on the mission click HERE, and for more info and/or other Clynelish tasted on the mission click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

I cannot hold back my delight, old (any?) Clynelish gets my heart racing. Apples, peaches, apricots, vanilla, and smoked paprika. Creamy features so common in Clynelish: marshmallows, Cool Whip, etc. Aromas of baked goods, more fruits, spice, and smoke.

Hot, buttery, woody and peppery with a fruity surge, Brylcreem, coriander seeds, spicy like English mustard (but not hot), honey, cereal, sourdough, oak... And oak. Resiny. Honeycomb. Finish is sweetened with toffee but oak drives it, though not in an unpleasant or overpowering way. I don't want this to end. Refill...

SUMMARY:

As objective as I tried to be, I think my feelings were made clear above. Perfect abv% for drinking, absolutely luscious flavours delivered in a slightly edgy style, honeyed and spiced and very Clynelish. Someone please put this on my Christmas wish list?

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Malt Mission 2007 #194

Talisker 1982, 25yo
Island Single Malt Whisky
58.1% abv
£120

During the late 1980s, DIAGEO introduced what would become the benchmark expressions of single malt whiskies from six single malt distilleries under the CLASSIC MALTS name. Without doubt, and giving credit where credit is due, this played a part in fostering the growing interest in malt whiskies during this period. One product of this surge of interest was the introduction of DIAGEO's RARE MALTS range, a series of rarer whiskies begun in 1995 but discontinued in 2005 as stocks declined, after all, RARE MALTS are by definition an exhaustible resource.

The interest in unusual, distinctive, older and unrepeatable cask strength bottling also saw a rise in the 21st century and to satisfy this demand and move some of the stocks from warehouses across Scotland, DIAGEO's SPECIAL RELEASES was born. The first of these was a 28yo Talisker in 2001, initially priced at £495 and now, if you can find the stuff, fetching at least 3 times that amount. Obviously, it was decided that these SPECIAL RELEASES were a good idea. A Port Ellen 22yo (now in it's 7th release and aged 28yo) and a Talisker 25 followed and both also sold out quickly. The demand was obviously present and the special releases have continued annually ever since. There are a total of 59 bottlings in this elite range to date. So demand is certainly present, the challenge has been to maintain supply, and the quality of that supply. By all accounts, Nick Morgan and DIAGEO have done brilliant job at this.

This 25yo Talisker is the ninth offering from the only distiller on the Isle of Skye in the Special Releases range and is one of 6,894 bottles. For more distillery info and for past expressions from Talisker had on the mission, click HERE.

Guest-tasted today by TF (cuz I wanted post on this baby and wasn't invited to the launch or get drops through the post. Oh well). Thanks, mate. With only a laugh and more clarity intended, I will translate of few of his 'local' descriptors.

TASTING NOTES:

Rich, sweet. Golden syrup, brown sugar, sticky home-made gingerbread, with sweet oak lurking in the background. Peat, white pepper. Clearly a few top-quality sherry casks in the mix.

All the flavours from the nose, but with an extra smack of coal and dry peat, rounded by a fabulously delicate honeysuckle. Full and rich, silky smooth but packing a great chewy, peppery punch. The spices are perfect. Finish is long, strong and somehow manages to be both brash and graceful at the same time, like a ballerina with a Mohican (British term for the hairstyle that some/most call a mowhawk). The spices and the sherry are perfectly complemented by the succulent peat.

SUMMARY:

Wow. Just stunning. Phwoarr!! (another Briticism, the kind of term you see printed across the bottom of a picture of a topless footballer/soccer player or actor from LOST, etc.). Gorgeous nose, even better on the palate! This is sumptuous stuff.

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Malt Mission 2007 #193

Compass Box Morpheus
(Vatted) Malt Scotch Whisky
46% abv
£40

Computer software, fictional captain of the Nebuchadnezzar in "The Matrix", and now a limited release from Compass Box, the Greek god of dreams continues to be an inspiration to creative minds around the world. Morphine also finds its roots in the Greek god, and perhaps this whisky will have dream-inducing power...

John Glaser has created Morpheus as a limited release for Jeroboams Group/Milroy's of Soho. Like Flaming Heart (had yesterday and back at Malt Mission #12), and most of the Compass Box range for that matter, the combination of flavours could only have existed in the dreams of whisky drinkers until realised by the Compass Box crew. There are only 900 bottles in this release and Morpheus is very likely a one-off. Perhaps Phobetor and Phantasos will follow?

Whiskies in this creation include the usual suspects for Compass Box: Ardmore(peated style), Clynelish, Teaninich, and Dalhuaine.

TASTING NOTES:

Dynamic nose, cinematic. You can (safely, ie. no nose prickle) zoom in, smelling deeper and closer and will find new flavours at each level. Fruity, brown sugar, pie crust. Flan. Some smoke, smoke cheese, too. Earth and peat at the deepest level. Quite complex.

Salty, caramel, black licorice. Oats. Cinnamon and honey. Carrot muffins with orange zest. Finish combines Jelly Babies and mango juice with a final note of peat smoke.

SUMMARY:

Elegant and with great development of flavours, Compass Box has done it again. Slightly unusual in the CB range in that this malt has a very lengthy finish; most of their whiskies are big and short, encouraging another sip and earning the "easy drinking" description. This is a nightcap malt that speaks slowly, softly, and rocks you to sleep.

Malt Mission #191
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Malt Mission 2007 #192

Compass Box Flaming Heart
(Vatted) Malt Scotch Whisky
Limited Release #FH16 MMVII
48.9% abv
£40
$80(USD)

Fireworks galore last night. In fact it has been going on for a month. Yesterday was Guy Fawkes Night and hopefully now the nightly display is over. The pop and fizzes bring to mind cracking knuckles and reminds me of an email I received from a man who wanted to know what whisky I would recommend for his arthritis-suffering sister. Before you panic, it was her doctor who endorsed the treatment, not me. I just offered recommendations of rich sipping whiskies. I then got to poking around and was amazed to find how alcohol seems to have the privilege of being the cure AND cause of almost every disease, ailment and sickness!

"Ah, beer. The cause and solution to all of life's problems."- Homer Simpson

The good news is that the current consensus seems to be that moderate intake of alcohol can both prevent against arthritis and slow the effect of rheumatoid arthritis. So enjoy every drop of the Water of Life, Adrienne, the prescription is a winner.

Right, to the whisky of the day, the daily dram, the morning malt...

This is the second release of Flaming Heart (we had the first back at Malt Mission #12) and the good news is that this time it will be available beyond Europe. Like the first release, this is made up of malt whiskies (Clynelish, Linkwood, Caol Ila) that have matured in first fill ex-bourbon casks and then undergone a secondary maturation in new toasted French oak casks. The result of peated and non-peated whisky, some of the best blended ingredients in the industry, combined with skill and exposed to new oak has created a unique array of flavours unlike anything else out there. Doesn't mean it will be to everyone's liking, but those who like it like it a lot and the whole process is yet more evidence that John Glaser is a leading innovator in the world of whisky.

TASTING NOTES:

Lots of vanilla, cloves, freshly baked goods. Finger paints, peat, and putty. Balloons. Some boiled pork, too.

White grapes, cinnamon, pepper, and peat smoke. Yoghurt and toasty woodiness, too. Long but gentle finish of wood, tobacco and a whiff of peat.

SUMMARY:

Quite a different mouthfeel to the first edition, so far as my memory is accurate. Great, assertive flavours excited by the abv% and amplified by the oak and careful combination of the some of the best malt whiskies in Scotland. Perhaps a bit punchy to the new whisky drinker, but wonderfully easy drinking with a drop of water and enough complexity to stimulate debate among connoisseurs.

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Malt Mission 2007 #191

Highland Harvest
Organic Blended Scotch Whisky
40% abv
£15

Here we are 45 weeks later and this Malt Mission is still going. In fact, I have no indication that it will dry up any time soon. Still blows my mind actually. Ten drams from the landmark #200 and I am still unsure what exactly will be on the menu, but I am sure it will all be fun and tasty. Thanks for joining me on the ride!

Although it can be generally said that whisky production in Scotland has always been a tradition of ecological efficiency (often dictated by economic efficiency), the process is not 'organic' by our modern classifications of the term. The process is wholly natural and chemical-free, the problem is with the raw materials. This whisky is distilled with barley certified organic by the Soil Association and was the first organic Scotch whisky on the market.

Launched in 2005, this whisky is the product of Chris Parker and the Organic Spirits Company from what I can gather, has been blended by Richard Paterson. I have also been told that it very likely contains Isle of Jura, Dalmore, and Benromach. Can anyone verify or add more info?

Like with organic coffee or organic tobacco, we should not be lead to believe that organic whisky will somehow remedy the negative effects of alcohol (or caffeine or nicotine), but rather, by buying a product that uses fugicide and pesticide-free barley we are protecting soil, water, and local ecosystems. And apparently there is less methanol in this whisky than in most others. Not the greatest selling point, but that is just one of the techniques Parker used in trying to get folks to try the stuff. So let's have some.

TASTING NOTES:

Hardware store, rope, wood. Root beer. Minty and fresh. Corn and carrot muffins.

Vanilla and cloves, brown sugar, and then the flavours change direction: dry, smoky, stewed carrot sweetness. Burnt toast, corn on a barbecue.

SUMMARY:

Much more interesting than I would have guessed or than I had been led to believe by others. Goes to show we shouldn't take anyone's opinion as gospel (even when compose their own bible and style their hair like a Galilean in the time of you-know-who). This whisky is well worth trying, and would probably be brilliant for use in cocktails and mixed drinks.

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Malt Mission 2007 #190

Glenfarclas The Family Casks 1958
Speyside Single Malt Whisky
51.6% abv
£665
$1,995(CAD)

Well, I must say it has been an unusual week of dramming. Yes, it has been a privilege to be able to taste my way through 5 decades of Glenfarclas, but, man, has it been different than I expected.

I am a big fan of the core range of bottlings: the 105 is among the best bang-for-buck drops out there, I always recommend the 21yo to folks looking to buy a bottle for their dad/mom/friend/husband/wife who likes whisky(although we have not yet had it on the mission), and the 25yo was one of the best 3 whiskies I had in the first 100 Malt Missions. It seems to me, based on the 5 drops I have had this week, that The Family Cask series is a collection of unique, and sometimes odd, expressions from a consistently excellent distillery. After all, that is the fun in single cask expressions; finding interesting and unusual expressions of whiskies you thought you knew inside and out (I had two cRaZy Bowmores from the SMWS last night, for example). That is what drives malt maniacs to continue exploring the thousands of flavour possibilities available with Scotch whisky.

And they don't come cheap. Only the serious collector, lucky gift recipient, or wealthy whisky lover will be able to participate in the enjoyment of this range. Unfortunatley folks, that seems to be the way things are moving in the whisky world. Look around. There are fewer and fewer good drops between £15-25 and almost every new release that we have seen over the past year comes in at £30+. Don't lose hope. This increasing focus on luxury, this premiumisation of the whole sector cannot last forever(which will dry up first, though? Supply or demand?). For now, stock up on the drops you would most miss if a) they left your market, or b) they left your price bracket. And pray that some friend of yours with money to burn thinks that buying you the Glenfarclas Family Cask 1976(or whatever) would be a brilliant birthday present.

This vintage is one of 455 bottles from a sherry butt. For all Glenfarclas had on the mission click HERE and for other vintages from the Glenfarclas Family Casks click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

I have not mentioned appearance of colour yet this week (and Glenfarclas never adds colour) but I will today: this one is like treacle, molasses dark. And the legs are unusual, they go in all angles, looking more like scars (Freddy Krueger's face) than 'church windows.' Smells of sherry and oak, but believe it or not the aromas go beyond that after nearly 50 years in a cask. I get shellfish, coffee, mint, candied anise, and cinnamon. Smells like a forest, earth, tree bark, mushrooms, decomposition, and fresh herbal/floral breezes. There is some meatiness in there too; raw beef like a butcher's. Water lets out toasty aromas (smoke?) and more caramel or toffee sweetness.

Apples, sherry, toffee and some salt. Even some fresh impressions of flowers and honey. Then comes the dark side: burning wood, varnish, dark chocolate, blood, metal, tobacco, ginger, dark roast coffee, and Guiness. With water these two distinct sides of this whisky's personality bind together in an other-worldly complexity. Pointless to write down desciptors, it is SO active. Coffee or Guiness bitterness lingers through the oaky finish with the faint sweetness of chocolate chip cookies.

SUMMARY:

An old sherry monster, this is a whisky to measure time with. Every nose, every sip, every second spent with this whisky seems to slow down the rotations of the earth. Yes, it is oaky, but by no means has this whisky grown tired in the cask, it is full of flavours (aromas and tastes) and would be ideal during that alone time after the family leaves at Christmas.

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Malt Mission 2007 #189

Glenfarclas Family Casks 1965
Speyside Single Malt Whisky
60% abv
£325
$925(CAD)

Available in Canada through John Hanna & Son and unavailable in the US due to the regulation that bottle sizes must be 750ml (these are 700ml), many of these vintages are selling out as we speak. Several bars have even purchased the whole range. Amazing. Glenfarclas has always been whisky favoured by collectors and the spirit has been praised by many as the best Speyside has to offer.

Glenfarclas is a very conservative distillery. I was going to say 'traditional', but that might be unfair to other 'traditional' but progressive distilleries. At Glenfarclas everything is on a larger scale than normal: their capacity is twice that of Cragganmore or Danwhinnie, they have a mash tun that is 10m in diameter, and they have as many as 13 folks working at the distillery. This last relates to their 'conservatism' as all movement of casks is done manually on rails without the aid of lifts or robots from the future. And there is more: they have a firm policy that says "no" to wood finishes, they limit sales to independent brokers and highly discourage bottling of their whisky by ANY independent bottlers, and they stick to their technique of using sherry butts for the maturation of their whisky despite the fact that this practice can cost up to 10 times as much as using ex-bourbon barrels.

This vintage is one of 417 bottles from a first-fill sherry butt. For all Glenfarclas had on the mission click HERE and for other vintages from the Family Casks click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

A dry but appetising nose with apples, toffee, black pepper, broccoli, and soy sauce. Time in the glass releases more outdoorsy notes along with cinnamon and a touch of sulphur. Water unleashes a faint whiff of smoke alongside stone fruits, carob, and more rubbery notes.

Big and spicy with cloves, raisins, toffee and licorice. Drying and increasingly leathery and woody. Water adds a creaminess to the mouthfeel and allows this stuff to scream OAK, with musty, library/old book flavours as well. The finish is gingery with faint smokiness, walnut and oak flavours that linger for minutes.

SUMMARY:

I think this is as close to smoking (pipe? fresh rolling tobacco?) as I have come with a whisky; all the flavours are there and if you breathe deep enough, you can even get a good cough from it, too. Although I know nothing about cigars, I imagine this malt is well suited to accompany one. Amazingly high abv% for such an old whisky. The result is a concentrated spirit that welcomes both time in the glass and a few drops of water. Quite a good price for such an old proprietary single cask whisky, esp from a distillery who has officially never allowed anyone to bottle their whiskies. Can still taste nuts and oak. Maybe an idea (albeit, an expensive one) for a marinade?

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Malt Mission 2007 #188

Glenfarclas Family Casks 1977
Speyside Single Malt Whisky
59% abv
£210
$565(CAD)

Ah, 1977. The Clash released their debut album, Star Wars opened in cinemas, Jimmy Carter became 39th President of the United States, the Toronto Blue Jays played their first-ever baseball game, and I had my first birthday.

Glenfarclas distillery has been in the hands of a single family for six generations. You will see their pics to the right over the next few days travelling back in time along with our drams. It effectively went John, George, George, George, John(above right), and George(below right) since June 8, 1865.

One of 582 bottles from a refill sherry butt. For all Glenfarclas had on the mission click HERE and for other vintages from the Family Casks click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Soft, buttery nose. Very appetising. Muscat. Honey, bananas, golden raisins with a creamy vanilla-oaky depth.

Gentle entry that perks up (with the help of the abv%) with grape skins and fresh tobacco. Malty, with edam cheese, chocolate covered raisins, and an oaky finish that is not drying but actually quite juicy.

SUMMARY:

The nose is a delight, not overly complex, takes its time to show its inner secrets, showing good age with some scrumptious characteristics. Great range from low to high flavours, if that makes any sense... it is full in the nose. Great depth in the mouth, too, with well-bound flavours and all the charms of age without any interference from overpowering sherry (or bourbon). Another odd expression of Glenfarclas, but I suppose that is the fun of single casks.

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Malt Mission 2007 #187

Glenfarclas Family Casks 1983
Speside Single Malt Whisky
56% abv
£199
$499(CAD)

The Family Cask range from Glenfarclas is wholly unique and there is no other known collection of old and rare whiskies that covers 43 consecutive years from a single distillery. The series surpasses Macallan's Fine and Rare collection which has more and older(1926) bottlings and 25 consecutive vintages, as well as Gordon & Macphail's Glen Grant Vintages (1948-1968).

All of The Family Casks from Glenfarclas have been bottled at cask strength, a practice that most connoisseurs appreciate and one that Glenfarclas helped pioneer in the marketplace when they were the first distilling company to introduce a cask strength whisky to their core range back in 1968 with Glenfarclas 105 (tasted way back at Malt Mission #46).

This vintage is one of just 302 bottles from a refill hogshead. For all Glenfarclas had on the mission click HERE and for other vintages from the Family Casks click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Bittersweet from the start, with a fairly strong alcohol presence, too. Warming, with buttery and oaky aromas. Some baked goods and small bitter berries. Almonds, hot chocolate powder, and bread. Water really sweetens things up offering more exotic fruit, cocoa, and a slight meatiness.

Mouth-filling vanilla initially, then lemon cake, decimated coconut. Very nutty. Water reduces the explosive impact which could be a positive or a negative, depending on your mood. It becomes creamier, more spread-able, and the flavours appear to be more bound together. Long lingering flavours of oak, tea biscuits, with shorter impressions of pasta and crepes, and even sweeter baked goods with water.

SUMMARY:

Tasty, distinctive, and unusual. More complexity and flavour development than the initial nosing might suggest. Stands up to a lot of water. An odd member of the Glenfarclas family, not a George or a John... maybe a Simon? Overall, an odd Glenfarclas, and one for the curious-minded.

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Malt Mission 2007 #186

Glenfarclas Family Casks 1992
Speyside Single Malt Whisky
55.5% abv
£125
$275(CAD)

Totally missed Alcohol Awareness Week (Scotland) last week, October 21-27. The Scotch Whisky Association, Diageo, and many major liquor companies took part while Dr. Whisky remained oblivious. So today my prescription is "be a responsible drinker"; know what health experts think about your drinking habits and please don't drink to get happy. Drink for the social or hedonistic reasons, drink for the flavour experience(s), drink for cultural or religious practice. Drink in moderation. And drink water.

While there can be no doubt that alcohol causes harm in this country, not all liquor sectors can be punished equally at budget time. It cannot be ignored that in 2007 it has been 10 years without a tax hike on spirits in the UK. Scottish whisky has seen a boom in recent years and is showing healthy growth. Naturally, this growth has been largely due to a degree of stagnation in taxation and rather than firing people and closing distilleries, companies are actually hiring more people and building new sites.

We are nervous that if we can't all work to curb binge drinking and promote responsible relationships with alcohol that the tax and duty on spirits, and whisky in particular, will rise and could lead to economic hardships in certain areas of Scotland where the whisky industry plays a very large part in the health of local economies. Taxation is not the only, nor the most efficient, tool for reducing excessive consumption. I believe education can help cure a lot of these problems, and 24h drinking certainly doesn't help send either the right message or cause the right effect. More controls should be put in place in the clubs and bars of the UK. You cannot convince me that a couple of mates tasting the new Glengoyne Burnfoot at their flat in Dundee is more harmful to society than "drink all 8 shots and get a t-shirt" type offers or "2-4-1 alcopops or ciders." Respect your drink and your drink will respect you.

Right, onto our Malt Mission. The threads of many-a-whisky-forum have been buzzing with news and views surrounding the release of Glenfarclas' Family Casks (See THIS, THIS, or THIS). Glenfarclas has released a series of 43 vintages from 1952 to 1994 that they are calling Family Casks and the bottles can be bought individually or as a set. It seems they will be available in Ontario through John Hanna and Sons and in some other select markets around the world where importers have the determination to get some.

Glenfarclas has been distilled on the Recherlich Farm in Ballindalloch by six generations of the Grant family. For more distillery information and to see all Glenfarclas had on the mission click HERE. This particular vintage is from a sherry butt and is one of 669 bottles.

I was honoured to have been invited to the launch of these beauties in September and gutted that I could not attend as I was going to be out of the country. But I was delighted to receive samples from a few casks from Robert Ransom and I express my thanks for both the initial invite and the subsequent drops by post. We will be traveling back in time with Glenfarclas this whole week.

Tasted with MH (who started high school in 1992). His notes appear in quotes.

TASTING NOTES:

Bran flakes, "definitely breakfast cereal, but more like LIDL malt cruchies, to me." Some table polish, orange scented, "the stuff Grandma uses around the house". Perfumy, Flowers by Kenzo. Water brings the chemical polish out even more.

Sweet and dry, honey, a touch of salt, and mealy apples. Green veg, celery. Toasty sherry finish. "A bit nutty at the end, too." Water should be used very carefully, if at all. It brings out a slight marzipan flavour. "For me, the water hurt the nose but I like the taste better now." Honey, slice of orange, and plastic.

SUMMARY:

Matt wasn't sure if tasting first thing in the morning was the best way to evaluate cuz his morning mouth seemed to defend against the abv. In any event, we found this pretty simple and straightforward, and Matt felt the polish aromas really interfered with his experience. This expression has the perfumy elements of Glenfarclas, the polished wood tables, etc., but the standard 15yo has a fuller, rounder flavour to offer.

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Malt Mission 2007 #185

Bunnahabhain 1979 27yo
The Single Malts of Scotland
Islay Single Malt Whisky
46% abv
£55

Fifteen drams to the landmark Malt Mission #200. I still laugh when I look at older posts and remember how excited I was when I thought we would see Malt Mission #30. Thanks for helping me keep this going. And thanks for reading.

It's Friday. As of late last night I have three sets of mates in town. I have written about Bunnahabhain before and have nothing new to say today... well, there's always something. I am not sure if I have said this before but Bunnahabhain (the name of the town that sprung up around the distillery) means 'mouth of the river' but the distillery sources its (hard) water from Margadale spring.

For past posts and more info on Bunnahabhain see THIS. Other bottlings from The Single Malts of Scotland can be seen HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Woody, oaky, even cedary. Oily undertones. Halloween candies, the caramel ones, perfect for late October. Fruit flavoured bubblegums. Quite restrained and not overly expressive. When I add water the aromas become more metholic with more synthetic sweetness.

Yummy mix of sweet and savoury erupts with energy, and is quite sexy overall. Fruit cup and Yorkshire pudding. Pepper, mint, and even wisps of peat. Lingering flavours of oatmeal raisin cookies, butter, and coal.

SUMMARY:

An oddball, but deliciously drinkable. And what a price for the age! But I do wish it would DO more. It seems to strike a few tasty notes and resonate, but without much flavour movement. Always fun to dig out some peatiness in a Bunnahabhain, too.

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Malt Mission 2007 #184

Bowmore 1985 21yo
The Single Malts of Scotland
Islay Single Malt Whisky
59% abv
£60

We have had a few drops from The Single Malts of Scotland on the mission (others can be seen here) and I am always interested to see what other treasures (or turds) Sukhinder and the team at Speciality Drinks/The Whisky Exchange have gotten their hands on. The Single Malts of Scotland range is seemingly ever expanding and the good news is I have a few more of their products lined up in the run-up to Malt Mission #200 and beyond. Good news for me, I suppose.

Bowmore is one of those distilleries that I have heard equal amounts of people commend and condemn. This sort of polarity of opinion is something I absolutely love about Scotch whisky. Sure, it's not for everyone, but also every one is not for everyone. What an incredibly diverse spirit.

After tasting two offerings from Bruichladdich this week, here is a distillery that actually condensed their standard line of releases. After a thorough review of their products and how they are sold, Bowmore redesigned their packaging in 2007 and actually reduced the number or expressions in their range. One thing their research showed them was that although Bowmore did brilliantly at Duty Free, they were suffering on bar shelves. The redesign of their packaging attempted to remedy this by eliminating the loops and swirls on the label and making the text for 'BOWMORE' clearer and more pronounced.

For more distillery info, or to see other Bowmores had on the mission, click HERE. Tasted with MC visiting from Canada. His impressions appear in quotes.

TASTING NOTES:

First nosing actually gets my tummy grumbling. Honey and butter on toast. Estery (crabapples and hard pears) and phenolic(sea salt, bacon, and smoke), with Bowmore smells of cleaning agents, this time countertop sprays. Chips n' vinegar, lime. Some smells of the forest, trees, oak, pine. "Mmm... I like nose."

Energetic and quite smoky. Again with the cleaning agents and medicinal notes so common to Bowmore. Peat and barley drive the flavours with some sweet honey and vanilla notes interwoven with other sweets, licorice, toffee, etc. "I want to say chicken, but it doesn't actually taste like chicken." You mean the salt and pepper, KFC type flavour, or... "No, it is more the way it FEELS. You know how chicken is flavourful but not heavy? Doesn't really make any sense. Don't write any of this. Stop typing!" Long perfumy finish with some sweetness, peat, ash, and medicinal creams. "Not a strong aftertaste but it's persistent, it really lingers."

SUMMARY:

"I like this whisky, there is a brief moment where it is bitter, not unpleasant, but, I dunno. I still like it."
21 years and 59% abv? Amazing to have remained so high AND to still be so pleasant on the nose and palate considering the high abv. Unique and unusual but has matured well and flavours all compliment eachother in a pretty pleasant balance. Price-wise, this beats the (old) propietary 21yo by about £100. Great whisky for turning-back-the-clock season.

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Malt Mission 2007 #183

Bruichladdich PC6 (Port Charlotte)
Cuairt Beatha
Islay Single Malt Whisky
61.6%
£58

This is the second release in this highly collectible Port Charlotte Evolution series from Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte or PC6, and is finsihed in Madeira casks. We had its younger sibling yesterday and this one is already on fricking eBay. The makers have even decided to release 6 different collectible tins! Clever? Yes. Annoying? To some. But it's equally shitty that consumers are buying cases and unloading them on auction sites. That is terribly lame. What ever happened to DRINKING the stuff?

And it's £60?!? That is half the price of the new and unanimously worshipped Lagavulin 21. What is happening in the world of whisky? Consumers are more educated and taking more active roles in their understanding and appreciation of whisky than possibly ever before: more books are available/websites/blogs/active fora, tourism to distilleries is up, there are more Whisky fairs, etc. than ever before, more expressions from more distilleries, more more more. This can only be a positive, no? No.

Do new drinkers of Scotch whisky find the seemingly endless string of releases confusing and even intimidating? Yes. Do regular drinkers of Scotch whisky find the seemingly endless string of new packaging and new releases from distilleries a bit much at times? Certainly. And do new AND regular drinkers of Scotch whisky feel a little alienated by price? Yes. Without a doubt. Is whisky a drink or a status symbol(ask Mr. Chavez)? These are not general hypotheses from a disgruntled whisky lover. These are observations of expressed opinions of customers from Sweden to Saskatoon, from the front line of the whisky industry.

Pricing is working in two ways as we approach 2008: what I would call premiumisaturation and juvenile kitsch. We have new premium products from Chivas (Longmorn 16, Chivas 25, Glenlivet 25), dozens of vintages from dozens of distilleries, and new posh packaging with matching new price points. The entry-level Longmorn is now £50. Does a whisky have to be £50 to be good? No no no. Warehouses are being rummaged for old vintages and new 25year-olds are being launched here and there. All this while we keep hearing about a shortage of aged stocks...

"So let's turn them onto young whisky!" says marketing Mel/Melissa.

We have the successes of Adbeg Very Young, Still Young, and Almost There. Are we going to see Teeny Weeny Ardbeg or Ardbeg Neil Young? We have painfully young small runs of Bruichladdich (Port Charlotte, Lochindaal, and more to come, no doubt), Springbank (Hazelburn) and Edradour (Ballechin) available for <£60 a bottle. Are we going to be buying new make 'single still' Strathisla or Buckets o' Bunnahabhain soon? And it goes on and on until consumers are bored with cute ideas and immaturity... and then where are we? Whisky Loch? Or maybe we'll all be drinking bourbon. Or rum. Sure, the justification I have heard for higher prices on these collectibles is to deter or at least control the profit an individual might make in the reselling of these items in auction, etc, yet they still sell cases to single buyers. Why should anyone make money save the distillery on their COLLECT ALL SIX TINS campaign? !!!!!!! ?

I am only attempting to express a growing concern among whisky consumers that the flamboyant packaging, marketing, and media-attracting actions of a minority of the whisky industry could undermine the craft of the majority, sacrificing all the successes of recent years and assisting in the devaluing of the whisky sector. No matter how honourable one's intentions, inadvertently creating a lack of trust in any one sector of an industry can seriously damage the integrity of the perception of the sector as a whole. It takes years to earn credibility and seconds to lose it. I seriously believe that some of this whisky excitement needs to be tamed before the only customers left in the wonderful world of whisky are stamp collectors and old men and the distillers decide they need to close more Broras, Port Ellens, and Glen Mhors... which, of course, would be back where we started.

Bah! Semi-incoherent rant over. Let's drink this... this... this instigator! Big thanks to the gent who bought a bottle and opened it on the spot for us all to try. His impressions appear in quotes.

TASTING NOTES:

Lots of new make charm: oats, soft perfumy notes, smoke. A touch of spice. Water makes things more coastal and a touch of iodine, seaweed, or even maijuana weed, appear.

Prunes, salt, smoke a fruit. "Dried fruit, not the the point of Christmas pudding, but tasty. I am a massive fan of young whiskies." Buttery, sugary, crepes, the crispy, nearly-burnt bits in the finish. Salt stays on my lips for a very long time.

SUMMARY:

Scary how misleading the abv% was. Sure, it needed water, but no one guessed it was as high as 61.6%. Very approachable, but you have to a) like your peat and b) like 'em young. With time, this could be a real cracking drop, it is just that for me it needs more time in oak to build complexity and lose some of the pear-drop new make character.

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Malt Mission 2007 #182

Bruichladdich PC5 (Port Charlotte)
Islay Single Malt Whisky
63.5%
£58*

The folks at Bruichladdich distillery call the Port Charlotte (PC) Evolution series "the re-awakening of the long-lost soul of an extinct distillery." The original Port Charlotte (Lochindaal) distillery and closed in 1929 in the wake of American prohibition and company changes in Scotland. You still can, and I have, sleep in part of the remnants of the distillery as it is occupied by a Youth Hostel. Or you can park your car in part of an old warehouse.

Ruraidh Macleod is the last man alive to have tasted the original Port Charlotte. "It was very, very peaty; but it was as smooth as velvet." Bottled at 63.5%, this stuff was filled to cask at 71%, the result of what Jim McEwan had called 'trickle-distillation', ie. running the stills slowly.

This is also the first spirit to be produced by the current owners who took over the distillery in 2000 and began production in 2001. Released almost exactly a year ago, the original run was over-subscribed by 400% and began yet another series of highly collectible bottlings. But how is the stuff in the bottle? Thanks for the sample, Colin.

For more distillery information and to see other drops of Bruichladdich had on the mission click HERE.

* - the quoted price is dated and if you were to find a bottle of this stuff for sale today I am sure it would have a price tag above that initial one. Crazy whisky collectors, screwing everything up for us whisky drinkers.

TASTING NOTES:

Dairy first impressions (appropriate as the remnants of the distillery were used as the Islay Creamery until 1990s) Clotted cream, salted butter, and brie. Yogurt based curry, even. Creme de cassis, lemonade(Sprite, 7up) honeydew and peat smoke throughout. With water it becomes even more lemony (synthetic), the smoke gets more industrial, petrolic, a warm running engine.

Hot (it is 63.5%, after all). Big smoky impact, very much like Lahroaig, but the array of flavours is quite different. Still dairy with buttered toast, lots of pepper, and then very drying like (properly) brewed tea. With water it is more mineral, earthy, and biscuity. Grape skins and smoke in the dry finish. Peat smoke lingers.

SUMMARY:

Pretty impressive actually, if young. And not for those repelled by peat. This is the kind of juvenile spirit that can get folks pretty excited for the future. Let's hope that future is more affordable than £60 a go. (Check out Sku's impressions... and if you have a look around, be prepared to get hungry)

Malt Mission #181
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