For Scotch Lovers Whisky Explorers Club

If you have created a whisky fantasy in your mind, have a whisky society or meetup where you live, or frequent online whisky fora, websites, and blogs you have no doubt thrown around the idea of sharing wee samples with other enthusiasts by mail.

Well, imagine the same concept mixed with my favourite pub and/or household game (blind tasting and guessing) and you are close to what Doug Stone, friend and founder of the For Scotch Lovers website, has created with his Whisky Explorers Club.

I read the press release, spoke with Doug, did some math and then happily joined as the price seemed totally worth it for the enjoyment of the activity. A group of friends also joined so we all look forward to each shipment of treats. This morning I received an email saying Flight #3 was already on its way. Time flies!

If you are not a member, let me paint a picture of the club.

My first venture into the website was admittedly clunky, but after a lot of webmazing, I got signed in. Like with any new endeavor online (MyFace, YouBook, Twatter) it took a while to figure out how to navigate, where to begin, what the words meant, etc., but once logged in and dramming, all was forgotten. After two flights, it's down to a science now... although I do still have a few suggestions (below)

So once our whisky is poured and we are logged into the IQ page, we answer a series of multiple choice questions: how does it look? feel? taste? smell? do you like it? Then we get to guess from a shortlist, what whisky we think we were having.

All of these answers popoulate your final "Whisky IQ", based on your correct answers, if and when such answers can be said to exist. So the next page gives your score and tells you the answers they were looking for. Satisfying. Fun. Geeky as hell.

But from this screen there is no link to start again with another whisky, just links to BUY the whisky, and, incidentally as I tried sample 0210WY23 while walking you through, a quote from and link to this site. While the whole experience was enjoyable, I was left asking, "so what?" Like, now what? There is no community context putting my Zen Master IQ into perspective, no way to view others' comments, no forum, no nothing. Just "here's your whisky, answer some questions for us, and bye bye."

Still, overall, the game is fun, easy, and I am totally happy with my membership and look forward to each package. It is amazing fun and is a great easy gift for a whisky geek in your life.

But the club is still in its infancy, so as members I know Doug is keen to hear our thoughts, so here are a few things that would make it more enjoyable, at least for me.

- make getting into the IQ game easier once logged in, ie via a logo or link in the MY or COMMUNITY windows on right.
- make starting another product OR joining a forum discussion OR viewing others' scores easier from the last page of the IQ results.
- why do I have to fill in every "Please tell us how often you drink..."? It's just annoying not to be able to leave some blank. In fact:
- don't make me answer the golden questions (male/female, how often do you drink, etc.) more than once, ie. the first time I log in.
- put a slash through zeros on the product numbers so they can be more easily differentiated from the letter O

Beyond that, go join. It's fun and the more members, the more enjoyable the whole thing will be for all of us.
http://for-lovers.com/store/scotch/catalogsearch/result/?q=explorer

Malt Mission 2010 #386

Glen Garioch Founders Reserve
Highland Single Malt Whisky
48% abv
£29
$45 (USD)

One of the last operating distilleries from the 18th century (and the first time featured on the Malt Mission), Glen Garioch (pronounced "Glen Geery") underwent a much needed repack and as cynical as the whisky intelligentsia can be about s-s-scrary m-m-marketing, I think the verdict was unanimous: gorgeous work. But it is not just the look of the pack that changed, the liquid moved in the direction of nurturing anorak appeal:

a) the alcohol by volume was upped to 48% because
b) the liquid is not chill-filtered.

And the geeks rejoiced.

TASTING NOTES:

Buttery pie crust, sourdough, Granny Smith apples, vanilla and pine.

Savoury and bright sweetness of shortbread, lemon, and white grapes. Apricots and macadamie nut oiliness. Late spicy woodiness, pine again, freshly cut saplings.

SUMMARY:

Light, fresh and appetizing with a good balance of bitter and sweet, wood influence and youthful spirit character. There are many examples of how delicious Glen Garioch can be at great ages, it is nice to have a proprietary bottling that shows its youthful charm as well, even if said charms won't woo everyone.

Malt Mission #385
Malt Mission #387
Malt Mission #388
Malt Mission # 389
Malt Mission #390

Malt Mission HOME

Wee Whisky Month 3

Wee Whisky 3 month old
65% abv (unscientific estimate)
$765,000 (or not for sale)

No one said growing up was easy, we all scratch our knees, bump our heads, or puke on ourselves along the way but the journey is what defines us. Wee Whisky has been maturing outside in the shady New York spring from hot noons to cool midnights, breathing in and out, becoming who she will inevitably become whether we like it or not.

Well, we like it.

In the disgusting humid heat (38C/100F) I have taken the cask indoors to protect it from rapid evaporation and accelerated maturation. We don't want her rolling over, crawling, walking too soon. In an ideal world, this baby will make it to 12 months, to 1 year without being dominated by her surroundings, ie. by wood.

TASTING NOTES:

Big sweet and powerful. Fudge, caramel, beer nuts. The perfect balance of new make-y esters and oak-extractive characteristics.

A near exact balance between spirit and cask. Very new makey at first on the palate but with apples and spicy notes, and with an growing swell of burnt sugar, maple syrup, and candied peanuts. With water the sweetness spills over the edges of the glass, at once so young vibrant and expressive, with bigger bready notes, fuller fruit notes, pears, grapes and limes, and dollops of butterscotch.

SUMMARY:

Really delicious and I admit to being happily suprised. Not unlike the old Glenfiddich 8yo with a little extra bourbony blast... and it's only 3 months old! Yay for wee casks. Although I do now worry whether or not this will make it a full year without being overpowered by wood.

Its deep copper colour visibly shows how the cask has affected its contents. The rich sweet bourbony American oak nose and palate has taken hold of the new make spirit and made it into something new, something wonderful, something that as a father, I cannot wait to see what happens next.

Wee Whisky Week 1
Wee Whisky Month 1

True North Strong and Free

Happy Canada Day/Dominion Day/le Jour de la Confederation!

The Queen is in Canada, Dr. Whisky is in Norway, the beer is in the fridge and the bbq is on.

But what to drink?

Hmmm... Creemore and a few fingers of Gibsons.

You?

-

Canada Day 2008

A Clearach and Present Danger

What an April! New baby, new sleep routine, new jeans, new make...

White dog is everywhere, man. What happened?

As exhibited at whisky festivals and in the hands of mixologists across the USA, it is clear that THIS and THIS were certainly no April Fools jokes, but lord please tell me THIS was. Sku, say it ain't so!

No?

Then God help us all.

I have always relished the opportunity to taste the new make spirit of my favourite distilleries: Balmenach, Clynelish, Balvenie, and Laphroaig stand out in my memory, but only partly due to the taste, mostly due to the excitement of being "allowed" to sneak a few drops at the distillery. Makers Mark shares their white dog at tastings, many Scotch companies share their clearach before enjoying their mature whiskies, and I know I often use new make to show folks what a great impact wood has on the final mature whisky, but selling white dog/new make/clearach/moonshine? And for more money than its matured bretheren? Perhaps cool if genuinely moonshine or illicitly distilled make, but from legal commercial distilleries? Seems totally absurd.

In Scotland, whisky is, by law, grain spirit matured in oak barrels for a minimum of 3 years. Before that, you cannot call it whisky. And, what follows, is that the name "Glenfiddich", for example, cannot be applied to a new make spirit or vodka that is commercially sold because the SWA protects against consumer confusion and "Glenfiddich" means scotch single malt scotch whisky. Glenglassaugh, a 20+ years mothballed distillery, was recently reopened and promptly released some new make which it called "The Spirit Drink That Dare Not Speak its Name" due to the above restriction. Kilchoman, a new single malt distillery whose name currently means very little to the consumer (oh, but it will in no time) has released new make under it's brand name but is able to do this precisely because it is a new distillery and has never had whisky (3 year old grain spirit) to release. An established distillery cannot do this. In Scotland.

But in Japanese whisky we have Chichibu's "New Born" releases. And in America, it seems open game. A name like "white whiskey" could never work in Scotland because immature spirit is NOT whisk(e)y. And to name the white dog after the distillery (Buffalo Trace?) and then sell it (for more than the mature stuff!!?!!) would simply not fly. Nor should it.

Highland Park, Glenglassaugh and Bladnoch now have their new makes available for purchase, as does Tullibardine, the same distillery that sells beer, water, and retail space as a part of its economic model.

Without a shadow of a doubt, this trend is an immense cash crop and is no doubt extremely lucrative from a commercial perspective. Short term.

This opinion may not be popular and may attract some flak, but as a whisky lover, I do NOT think that this is a good direction for distillers to head, least of all because it is exploitative of the consumer... and that should be enough! But also because what makes whisk(e)y whisk(e)y is the time in spends in oak casks. How each distillery's make has a unique chemical construction, nearly imperceptible to the nose UNTIL it reacts, extracts, and interacts with oak. Ask science!

Whisk(e)y contains hundreds of chemical compounds, HUNDREDS of different concentrations of flavour and aroma-giving chemical compounds such as esters, aldehydes, and phenols (although these only account for 0.2% of a bottle of whisky). Four 12 year old casks of Pulteney, Clynelish, Glenmorangie, and Dalmore, all Northern Highland distilleries, will have very distinct flavours and aromas detectable to the human nose AND to gas chromatographs and pattern recognition algorithms. If you are someone nerdy enough to read this blog, your nose could probably distinguish between these four mature spirits, right? No? Well, that's fine. Science can detect a very clear distinction between them.

But in a series of experiments done in Scotland, Spain, Japan, and England over the past 20 years, it has been shown that new make from different distilleries, indeed, from different countries, had more in common than they differed. You will agree that if we sat down and nosed/tasted mature Irish, American, and Scottish whiskies, that you could distinguish between them, right? Well this sample of Irish, American, and Scottish makes had nearly imperceptible differences that went incorrectly identified by gas chromotograph and pattern recognition.

"Oh, chill out, Doc," I hear you say. "I love drinking clearach and will spend any price tag to have some. Maturation isn't everything." Well, I have to disagree. While maturation isn't EVERYTHING, maturation IS the most important SOMETHING in Scotch whisky. Mature spirit is what separates cask from cask, distillery from distillery, year from year. It is what allows single distilleries have varied expressions that means not only do we have over 100 distilleries in Scotland to drink from, but we have thousands of different expressions from which to swill. But if you don't mind the idea of a handful of distilleries making only a handful of styles, then keep riding that white dog. Or fucking that chicken. Or whatever it is that you do.

Doesn't a trend to premiumisation piss most of us off? Isn't that what Hansell recently editorialized about, that WDJK and Malt Advocate readers and the online whisky fora target premiumisation as a large problem with Scotch Whisky? Well, isn't this trend premium pricing a less valuable product? Let's grab a bottle of J&B -6 to celebrate!

But I shouldn't get too excited, really. This trend could just be a short blip in an economic recovery, right? Or is it part of a well thought out commercial plan with clear implications for the whisky industry? If you think Bruichladdich's was wise to charge 120 bucks for Port Charlotte 5 year old, or Ardbeg was successful with their Very Young, Still Young, Almost There series, just wait. You ain't seen nothing yet.

Let me know your thoughts in comments, on Facebook, or get in the ring on the Moonshine post at What Does John Know?

Wee Whisky Month 1

Wee Whisky 1 month old
68% abv or pretty damn near
$ not for sale

Maturation is a slow process and one shouldn't watch the pot. In the month since birth the liquid has gone from clear to light gold. The child has changed, too. I was on the road for a 5 day stretch and there were noticeable changes when I returned. With the child, I obviously want to spend every minute, but with the whisky not so much.

I admire distillers for having the patience to just fill a cask and leave it the hell alone. I don't have the patience for this!
I want to get to know you, already. What kind of person will you be? What are you going to like and what are you going to hate? Will you be a funny? Serious? Outgoing? Shy? Who are you already!?!!

As far as tasting notes go, the only fair thing to do is to compare to the new make/white dog as all it is (so far) is really new make plus.

TASTING NOTES:

Brown sugar sweetness replaces the vegetal aromas of the new make, with some cake mix and apple aromas, too.

Very new make-y on the palate. Wow. 68% abv!

SUMMARY:

Sweet, young, and strong. But of course I would say so, I'm her father. With water I can taste more, but it really is just yellow new make. I think this stuff might last a year in this cask... and then we will have a 1st birthday party to remember.

Wee Whisky Week 1

(thanks for the shoes, K&E!!!)

Malt Mission 2010 #385

Glenfiddich 1955
Private Vintage
Cask, 4221 Bottle 168
Aug 16 2006
Speyside Single Malt Whisky
52.6 % abv
£5000

Water. I wrote a bit about it on my last post, and will do so again today. Or, will at least make a few citations organised in a pretty haphazard way.

Whatever the effect of water on whisky, it is fair to say that the single most important fact in choosing the location of distillery is the availability of a good clean water source as water is used in nearly every stage of the whisky-making process. Out of necessity, crofter distilling took root along the arteries of the land, "lands of hills and valleys, of lochs and mountain streams, of much poor land but of very good water," (R.J.S. McDowall, The Whiskies of Scotland, 1967). Today, most distilleries use surface water, "collected from a loch or resevoir above the site, and usually it is soft water. Much of this water is coloured brown by peat. Often different sources are used for the production and colling processes. This is very important condition to build the distillery near a good source of water supply. The quality of the water is the keystone of making good whisky." (Misako Udo, The Scottish Whisky Distilleries, 2006).

Understood, but "quality" of the water? What the hell does that mean? No poisons, fertilizers, etc., okay. But beyond that? "The water source, whether it is alkaline or acid, hard or soft, plays an important part in the taste and smell of the final single malt." (Helen Arthur, Whisky: The Water of Life=Uisge Beatha, 2000)

The mineral content affects the taste and smell?
"Production water used in the production of wort makes a major contribution to the quality of the spirit that is produced." (Timothy C.S. Dolan, Whisky Technology, Production & Marketing, 2003).

Quality of the spirit? What does that mean? What is water's effect on the character of the spirit?
"Douglas Murray of Diageo [...] sums up the general industry view. 'On a scale of one to one hundred, I would rate it at between one and two." (Andrew Jefford, Peat Smoke and Spirit, 2004)
Taken with a grain of salt, certainly, but is there any truth to it?

A representative from the Scotch Whisky Research Institute (SWRI) told me that while it was important to have untainted water at all stages of the production process, "with mashing there is the additional possibility that the composition of the water used can have an impact on the progress of fermentation. Research carried out at SWRI by one of our PhD students showed that using mashing waters from different sources, with different compositions, can influence flavour." So this answers my main question, "Can water used in production effect the flavour of whisky?" But, as the representative from Diageo queried above, how much of an effect does it have? "Obviously the use of tainted water can potentially have a huge negative impact of the flavour, depending on the degree and nature of the taint. The influence of different mashing waters on flavour is detectable, but it is important to be aware that these differences are subtle. However, many other factors in whisky production, when looked at in isolation, only have a subtle effect. It is often the accumulation of a large number of subtle difference that give the overall larger differences in final flavour."

It would seem, in spite of my intial doubt, that water does play an important part. Yes, it is only one variable of many (and a small one at that) that affect the nature of a given whisky, but its importance is accounted for by science. But it's not as if we needed that, is it? We already know it is accounted for in our romantic imaginations, reinforced by the whisky maker's themselves (Ardbeg named Uigeadail, it's cask strength no-age statement 2003 release, after the loch that supplies its water; Dalmore's precious 62yo sold at McTear's in 2002 was christened "Kildermorie" after the distillery water source, William Grant & Sons had a blend called Robbie Dhu, etc., etc...)

"Water, taken in moderation, cannot hurt anybody." - Mark Twain. Well, Benjamin Rush had other ideas, as exhibited on his Scale of Temperance. Rush's moral thermometer (1828) varied slightly, but in every incarnation, spring water was the drink of the highest order leading to health, wealth, serenity of mind, long life, etc.

Water, that mix of hydrogen and oxygen, is vital for all life, for all living spirits, and vital for making whisky. "Personally, however, I prefer [...] the enduring mystique - whisky-making as something akin to alchemy." - Gavin D. Smith

TASTING NOTES:

Fresh and fruity with peaches and pears, but weighted by cream, oak, and evident time.

A savoury, appetizing, tapas-like array of flavours: parsley, brie, pastry, sage, lamb, stewed apples, all drying into a finish of yellow plums, hard peaches, and carpentry.

SUMMARY:

Wholly unique. Unusual, rich, and deeply interesting, a dram to cotemplate and revisit. An expensive luxury, no doubt, but nonetheless, too bad it is all gone.

Malt Mission #381

Malt Mission #382
Malt Mission #383
Malt Mission #384

Malt Mission HOME

Malt Mission 2010 #384

Glenfiddich 1958 Private Vintage
Cask 8642, bottle 135, bottled 5th July 2006
Speyside Single Malt Whisky
46.3% abv
£3300

I have been reading a lot about water lately, in particular (obviously), how it relates to the making of Scotch whisky. The importance on a very practical level is clear: distillery founders in days gone by needed a good, clean source that was steady and inexhaustible, or at least seemingly so. Water is key to the whole whisky making process (malting, mashing, ferementing, heating, cooling, etc) and without it we'd have little more than a pretty yeasty breakfast cereal and some superior race would have found a way to serve us porterhouse style. Good thing we scared them off by such a glorious display of intelligence as usquebaugh.

In the 70s, and still in some promo materials today, distilleries really made a big marketing stink about their water sources. It made sense as single malts were just emerging in global markets and the consumer needed simple, memorable, and romatntic points of difference to know, say, Glenlivet from Glenfiddich. Add to this the business reality of consolidation that was running rampant at the time and larger companies were centralizing their bottling plants and using treated water to bring their malts and blends down to desired strength. Obviously, a major point of difference at that time would have been adding unique value to unique NATURAL water sources.

Glenfiddich is the only Scotch Single Malt Whisky to use a single spring source in all processes from mashing to bottling, and most folks who have a bottle or tube at home can read about the Robbie Dhu spring, a spring so important to the family that William Grant himself bought the surrounding hills to protect it. Romantic? Check. A great show of integrity? Certainly. But does it actually effect the TASTE of the whisky? Science says "meh."

The Scotch Whisky Research Institute is an amazing scientific body that is funded by whisky makers large and small to perform research of value to distillers, the wider industry, the environment, trade organizations (the SWA, for example), and the government. Today, the SWRI is involved in a wide variety of research projects, but most of the research into raw materials, a category under which water would no doubt be included, looks primarily at barley and other cereals, yeast, wood, and starch/gumlike polymers contained in cereals. So, does that mean the water verdict is already in? Does the water used in production of scotch whisky have any effect on the final flavour of a given whisky?

Big thanks to Ian Millar to bringing this treat to an event I attended in Miami. And extra thanks for letting me take this old dame back to my room...

For more Glenfiddich distillery info or to see all Glenfiddich had on the mission, click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

A warm, rounded nose of soft spice notes, caramel, green grapes, fudge, and walnuts. Beautifully rich and elegant.

Surprisingly bright, sweet sherry notes that dry into raisins and figs, eventually sandalwood, licorice root, freshly ground coffee and dark chocolate. Long oak driven finish with sweet/bitter balance of coffee/cocoa bean and winey flavours.

SUMMARY:

Stellar sherried oldie. Perfectly sippable at strength with bright, bold flavours that walk rather than run, whisper rather than scream. A gentle giant of which I wish I could have had more than a thimble-full.

Malt Mission #381
Malt Mission #382
Malt Mission #383
Malt Mission #385

Malt Mission HOME

Spirit of Toronto 2010

Spirit of Toronto 2010

April 24, 2010
Roy Thompson Hall
6:30-10pm

Now in it's 6th year, The Spirit of Toronto Whisky Gala is around the corner and is not an event to be missed. I have mentioned it on Dr. Whisky over the past few years, have been involved in the past two, and will promote it again this year cuz it is a truly excellent event in one of the greatest cities in the world.

This is a celebration of the water of life (whisky, whiskey, scotch whisky, and congnac) with over 100 drops to try, dozens of exhibitors, live jazz, a killer cocktail bar, a cigar lounge (outside), and truly excellent Masterclasses.

Buy your tickets now!

Wee Whisky Week 1

I have decided to begin a new series on Dr. Whisky.

I am doing this for a few reasons, least of all because I have a new baby girl and a new wee whisky cask BOTH maturing on site. But mostly because the Malt Mission is losing steam.

First of all, my full time job in whisky fully satiates my physical desire to drink the stuff and my intellectual desire to talk about the stuff, so this project no longer performs at least two of its inital purposes. Beyond that, I have very little time to nose and taste all the fine whiskies that come my way, let alone write original and interesting posts about them. Finally, we all know that this format has grown tired and terribly cliche. It seems every week I get an email from some instant expert asking me to share a link to his new whisky blog or scotch website where he tastes a new whisky each day, gives it a score based on some highly convoluted system, tells the story of the distillery, does away with the elitist mumbo jumbo so often associated with scotch whisky tasting notes providing the world with simple, clear tasting notes.

Friends, Please think of something new.


Now back to the topic at hand: new life! My amazing wife had a baby and my amazing friends ensured I could get new make and a cask to fill to commemorate the occasion. Huzzah!

Baby was 9 days overdue and doctors and parents-to-be decided to begin induction process to see if we could meet her while her grandparents-to-be were in town. Mommy worked so very hard to get baby out but baby was too big headed, literally, and eventually came into the world as an empress, April 6, 2010 6:23am, after 16 hours at the hospital and 12 solid hours of ouch (mainly for mommy, tho daddy did stub his toe on the end of a gurney at one point) at 8lb 13oz/4.015kg

Baby and mommy came home Friday April 9 in the afternoon and we could not have been happier. As if it wasn't a miracle enough that mommy and daddy could just do the same thing they regularly do but one time make a little clump of cells that miraculously turns into a seahorse, then into a shrimp, then into a baby baby and then an actual baby that comes OUT OF MOMMY, by just putting baby to mommy's chest, mommy's boobs began making milk. MILK! Yes, I tried, too. No luck. No milk. No whisky. No nothing.

It was so fabulous to be in our own home with our new wonder and the little angel blessed us bygiving us a first night that is a new parents fantasy: baby slept SIX HOURS!

We have all spent time crying, nursing, cuddling, comforting, and sleeping. Baby already had had two sets of visitors, 3 sets of family naps, and 6 sets of burp rags.

One gets asked a lot of questions around this time, and most of them have straightforward answers even if I have to google them before answering, however, "How does it feel to be a father?" has proven most complicated to answer accurately.

Do you remember when you were 10 years old and you got hit with the realisation that a woman (well, girl, actually) other than your mother fancied you, played kissing tag with you, or asked if you wanted to "go around"? Well mix that with the feeling of being given the keys to a part of the world that had been there forever but that you had not yet noticed nor had anyone else ever seen and you'd be close, yet not quite there.

Wee Whisky was used to make rye at the amazing Tuthilltown distillery (thanks for the vessel, Gable!) and then half filled with a mixture of Old Grandad and Old Weller 107 to maintain the benefits of three influences on the spirit I would eventually be putting in the cask. Tuesday night, the cask was disgorged and new make from two different Scottish single malt distilleries were filled into wee whisky.

Baby's first walk took place Sunday April 11, Baby's first doctor's appointment took place Monday April 12, Wee Whisky's first taste will come May 6, 2010. Until then, go start a blog about your bowel movements. Shit, even THAT is not original...